St. Michael’s Day: Fiesta de San Miguel Arcángel
San Miguel de Allende is a known party town. Parades wind through the Historic District throughout the year, but one of the biggest celebrations is Fiesta de San Miguel Arcángel, honoring the city’s patron saint.
And let me tell you: I had absolutely no idea what I was in for.
This year, the festivities came shortly after Mexico’s Independence Day celebrations, and to my surprise, they were some of the loudest and most enthusiastic celebrations I had experienced in San Miguel. And that may have something to do with the fact that the buildup happens over several days — and the actual patronal festivities extend well beyond one parade.
A little advice if you're visiting San Miguel
If you're planning a visit around the end of September or first week of October, especially during the patron saint festivities, be prepared for traffic and street closures.
The city blocks off streets well in advance of some of the larger parades and processions. This is especially important if you're trying to catch a cab or a shuttle such as BajíoGo to or from the airport.
You don't want to miss your flight because a parade has taken over the street.
But honestly, San Miguel is such a wonderful walking city that my best advice is: put on your walking shoes and go with the flow.
I accidentally slept through the party
The main festivities happen in the early morning, and I know this because I experienced the beginning of them from my own house.
My home sits along one of the parade routes, so I've been fortunate enough to look over my balcony and watch several processions go by. Think French Quarter during Mardi Gras — only with cobblestone streets, horses, fireworks and a whole lot of San Miguel energy.
The early-morning festivities began with drums, cheering and people making their way toward the center of town.
Then came the fireworks.
And more fireworks.
And more fireworks.
By the time things finally quieted down around 6 a.m., I had gotten very little sleep.
At one point, people had even decided that our stoop was a pretty great place to stop, laugh and continue the festivities.
Meanwhile, I was lying in bed thinking:
Something important must be happening.
Parades had been building throughout the week, but how important could this particular celebration be?
I had been so distracted working on my new book that I hadn't realized I was sitting right in the middle of one of San Miguel's biggest celebrations of the year.
And after a full night of fireworks, drums and cheering, I was feeling it.
Okay guys, want to hear it? Here's a small snipped of video I took. Forgive my whining voice, this is the voice of a very tired confused person who wears a retainer!
Then came Saturday afternoon
Still in my “what was that?” recovery, I took a cab over to a sweat lodge at a lovely place called Soul Path. Totally unaware of the festivities.
I've learned that taking a cab through San Miguel during parade season requires a little patience. But this time was next level. It also showed me how far this parade expanded out of town. Check out the footage! And excuse (again) the exhaustion is clear!
By 11:15 a.m., people were already putting chairs along Canal Street for the parade that wouldn't begin until the early evening.
Rows and rows and rows of chairs.
And despite a little drizzle, nobody seemed particularly concerned about the weather.
Then I started noticing the horses.
Horsemen and women were gathering along the streets, and suddenly it became very clear that I hadn't fully appreciated just how big this celebration was.
After my sweat lodge experience, I headed back toward home.
This time the streets were lined with even more horses — along with enormous Xúchiles, giant structures made of spoonflower (sotol), which quite literally has a scoop of a spoon at the base, and marigolds that are carried through the city.
Some of these structures are enormous, reaching several stories high.
They were slowly making their way toward the center of town.
The part I missed
Unfortunately, the combination of a very late night and a very early morning caught up with me.
I did make it to the parade along San Francisco Street, where I saw Indigenous dancers and people carrying the image of San Miguel Arcángel. Many different sections of the parade carried the city's patron Saint.
But I was exhausted. I was such a party pooper! And this exhaustion lasted two days! Straight through, past and see-ya, until next years festivities! What a whirlwind!
Who knew I needed that much sleep?
Who knew San Miguel's patron saint festival would take that much out of me?
So what exactly is Fiesta de San Miguel Arcángel?
This is where I realized I had accidentally stumbled into something much bigger than a few parades outside my front door.
The celebrations surrounding San Miguel Arcángel include religious ceremonies, processions, music, dancing, fireworks, horses, Indigenous traditions and enormous Xúchiles.
The festivities build toward the main weekend at the beginning of October.
One of the signature events is La Alborada, which takes place in the early hours of Saturday morning. Groups from traditional neighborhoods make their way toward the center carrying illuminated stars, accompanied by music and celebration. The event culminates in a spectacular display of fireworks honoring San Miguel Arcángel.
And then there are the Xúchiles.
These enormous ceremonial structures are carried through the streets toward the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, the city's iconic pink church. They are part of a much older tradition connected to the Indigenous communities and the patron saint festivities.
Another unforgettable part of the celebration is the horses. Cabalgatas bring riders into town as part of the festivities, adding an incredible equestrian element to the weekend.
And of course, there are the dancers, musicians, processions and crowds that fill the Historic District.
It is one of those San Miguel experiences that is difficult to fully understand until you're standing in the middle of it.
My takeaway for next year
So, did I fully experience Fiesta de San Miguel Arcángel this year?
No, I definitely failed to pony up for the festivities. I blame lack of sleep with a dose of a hour long sweat lodge to zap all my energy. The sweat lodge was awesome by the way!
But now I know.
Next year I'll be prepared.
I'll get some sleep beforehand.
Skip the sweat lodge.
Find a good spot along the parade route.
And most importantly:
I'll bring earplugs. No earplugs, no sleep...That is until it's time to get up at 1am.
Because if you're planning to visit San Miguel de Allende for Fiesta de San Miguel Arcángel, remember:
The party doesn't just come to town. The party takes over the town.
And honestly, I wouldn't want it any other way.
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